Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
